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What Type of Gutter Guard do I Install

I install and recommend an Aluminum Leafscreen because it is the most effective product on the market for keeping leaves out of your gutters. It is installed on any type of roof profile and type, including terracotta tiles, corrugated colorbond metal, Trimdek, Kliplock and even Slate. There is a plastic version of the Leafscreen that some providers will try and push to you, but beware, plastic loses it's shape quickly and is very famous for deteriorating quickly. I only recommend plastic installation of leafscreen when a home is within 100 - 200m of salty water. In all other instances plastic is not an option, except maybe when installed on plastic pergola roofs! The Aluminum product comes with a 15 year Manufacturers warranty which covers against degradation from exposure to the sun, wind and rain. It has a 3.5mm hole aperture (for all the engineers out there wanting to get the data!) which is wide enough to allow water to pass through the mesh into your gutters and not wide enough to let leaf litter get inside of the gutters. I can install aluminum ember guard to customers whom are situated in a bushfire zone. It is pretty much the exact same product as aluminum leafscreen, but it has a 2mm hole aperture to keep small burning embers from landing in your gutters. This ember guard product should only be installed if local legislations recommend it's installation, otherwise in my experience the hole aperture is too small and it does not allow for the free flow of water into the guttering.

I Don't Install Plastic Gutter Guard

Plastic Gutter Guard is getting pushed a lot lately by many providers. I have often asked potential prospects if they have had any other quotes or product offerings and am very surprised by the push. Well actually not too surprised! It's just that they have to move the excess stock and are probably buying it at a heavily discounted rate! Suppliers of gutter guard are also not very big fans of plastic mesh, as it takes up a lot more factory space! Almost 5 times more space required to store plastic! Anyway I also find that the plastic mesh is a bit too thick for tiled roof installations, this can cause the tiles on the second row to sit up a bit when the plastic is tucked underneath it. Plastic can catch fire! No need to babble on about that any further. Aluminum can be recycled easily, but plastic leafscreen I find harder to find somewhere or someone to recycle it. There are some cheap hardware store type gutter guards also of the plastic variety that are quite popular. These are the worst gutter guards and I have lost count on the amount of houses I have had to take that stuff out of! Hopefully this paragraph will make you think twice about installing plastic leafscreens on your roof.

I Don't Recommend DIY Hardware Store Type Gutter Guards

I don't install products that can be purchased at hardware stores. All of the products that they sell are not effective! But if you are on a tight budget , I recommend watching my video entitled "Gutter Guard Review" to find out which of these ineffective guards might be able to work in some way for you. These gutter guards vary in price from $1 a meter all the way up to $20 a meter and beyond. My favourite of these hardware store type solutions is the "Gutter Whisker" AKA the Gutter Hedgehog. The main reason why I like it is that it is really easy to take it out! Oh boy it is a pain to clean gutters with the other products they push in the way! But the hedgehog just slips out of the gutter, shake it off and slot it back in without a worry. Any product that either fills up the inside of the gutter, or lies flat on top of the gutter is very ineffective. The gutter guards that lie flat on top of the guttering just catch leaves on top of themselves and the guards that sit inside the gutter, fill up the valuable real estate inside! When it rains, you don't want anything obstructing the flow of water to the downpipes!

Why not the Egyptyian Pyramid Gutter Guard?

The Egyptian Pyramid Gutter Guard, otherwise more commonly known as the Easyfall or Easyflow Gutter Guard is a totally over the top concept. They first of all remove all the gutters and then put new plastic gutters on. Then they construct a massive shell around that gutter, almost like a shield. Now that shield that is surrounding the plastic internal gutter has holes inserted in the top where the water hits the shell from the roof. At the entrance to these holes they put these pyramid shaped "filters", which you would think they would block all the mits nd pieces from getting inside. These filters do a great job of keeping debris out of the system, but if any finer stuff gets to these pyramid filters it sinks inside the "Fortress"! Now, I'm not saying that an aluminium leaf screen is going to do a better job at filtering out the debris, but at least with a leaf screen you can see what's happening underneath. With the eqyptian pyramid concept, you have no clue whats going on inside "Fort Knox"! I do presume though that this product does not get installed anymore, as it's quite rare to see it. I would have to say that of the roofs I encounter that have gutter guard, the Egyptian Pyramid System makes up something like 1 -2% of those encounters. I suppose this paragraph is for those potential clients who are interested in gutter guard and their friend has an Egyptian Pyramid, to show them clearly that this is not what I install or recommend. Another flaw with those product (that I think has been rectified with recent installations!) is that the filters are very easily pecked out by birds or blown off in the wind. This can be stopped by sticking down the filters with silicone. Also the name is a bit of a wierd one, Easyflow! The reason I find it strange is because the water does'nt flow easily into it! It should be called Easyfall (which I think it has been re-named to) because the water will fall off the edge of the shell when the filters get blocked up with dirt.
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What About the Controversial Cheese Grater Gutter Guard?
Aaaah the Cheese Grater, this one I actually come across quite often! I definitely don't advise this type of gutter guard. The Cheese Grater has various mutations, it is sold at bunnings as a very thin metalic sheet , that fints into the lip of the gutter. It is also professionaly installed in a much thicker material. Who'm ever was installing these things back in the day must have made some good coin! I presume it sold so well because it is strong, easy to install (making it cheap!) and you could sell it as a solution to keep all debris out of the gutters. Well the cheese grater definitely is the best product for keeping things out of your gutters! It's like an antibiotic for your guttering, it keeps everything out, even the good things, like water! Yes, unfortunately because the product is installed lying flat, it turns itself into a debris magnet, attracting bits and peices over time that develop into a think sludge ontop. The sludge and muck then blocks tiny holes that are slit into the sheet and then water will be totally unable to enter the guttering and eventually sheet off the end of the gutters during heavy rains. Ladies and Gentleman, Ski-Slope is important! Not just on the French Alps, but on your roof! You have a slope and should take advantage of it! Install an Aluminium Leaf Screen and give the debris a chance to slide off your roof. Don't turn your gutters into a giant baseball mit with the cheese grater and other similar flat gutter guards.
How to Unblock a Downpipe Without Expensive Tools
Enquiries for gutter cleaning on the Foreverclean website are usually triggered by large rain events across Australia. Usually the customer is in a panic to get it done before the next stage of the storm hits. I thought it would be a great help to give some advice on our homepage to assist desperate customers who need to get a down pipe unblocked as soon as possible and as cheap as possible. Please be aware that working from a roof or on a ladder is extremely dangerous, never follow the instructions below without having someone to help or at least watch out for you. Never carry heavy materials up a ladder and be aware of the surface where your ladder is set up. Is it flat? Is it slippery? Do I have to set up the ladder on the grass or is there a better place to set the ladder up. Take it easy and slowly and you will increase your chances of *not* falling from the roof or ladder. You will need a garden hose, a ladder high enough to reach the top of the down pipe, a pair of gloves and a wire coat hanger(only if you have one, the down pipe can be unblocked without it , but it can aid in breaking up the material stuck in the down pipe). Setting up the ladder, find the safest place to set up your ladder. If you ladder is an extension ladder, use a ladder strap, octopus strap or some rope to tie the ladder around the down pipe (at the top end of the ladder) to help aid against the ladder rocking left or right whilst you ascend later on. Next you need to prepare the hose for the flush. Remove any spray or sprinkler attachments from the end that you will be putting down the upper mouth of the down pipe. Next remove any connecter on the hose on the end going down the down pipe so that you just have a "naked" hose. Climb up the ladder with the naked end of the hose and your coat hanger to the entry point to the down pipe. You need to firstly try and get as much debris out of the entry point to the down pipe as you can safely. Sometimes this is difficult because you can't get your hand underneath the tile or it's near a corner. If that is the case then use the coat hanger to push the debris through the first bend in the down pipe. If you do not have a coat hanger you can actually use the naked hose to push the debris through the first bend. After trying multiple angle you will see that the hose and coat hanger can mould itself to get around that first bend in the down pipe. If you are working from a ladder and are close enough to the down pipe to give it a generous few punches with your hand, then hit the down pipe a few times on the *under side* of the first bend. This will help to move the loosened debris to the next bend and will make it easier to wash down when you switch on the hose. Obviously don't hit it so hard test the down pipe becomes disconnected or damaged in any way. Spend a good five minutes loosening the debris with either the naked hose or the coat hanger and keep encouraging it along to the next bend in the down pipe by hitting the under side of the pipe itself. After 5 minutes of this, ask your companion to switch on the hose and wash the debris out of the down pipe. If the water starts to overflow from the top of the down pipe, then you have been unsuccessful in removing the blockage. In this case switch off the water and repeat the process of trying to loosen the debris stuck in the bend until you hear it either "Wooosh" down with the water or you hear the debris falling down the pipe. If the entire down pipe fills up with water and it is not hollow at the base of the pipe, then unfortunately you have a blockage in the pipe leading to the storm water. This could be because of a random tree root or some other blockage and you would unfortunately need to call a plumber to rectify this blockage.
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