Please be aware that this page will offer tips on how to install an Aluminium Leaf Screen. You will first need to get the materials needed to install an
Aluminium Leaf Screen. You can purchase your mesh from a variety of distributors around the country, there are quite a few to choose from. Most will give you free shipping for orders over $300, which usually an order is $600 - $1000 depending on what type of roof it is.
If you are installing on a tile roof, you will need to get 500mm mesh for your gutters and 750mm - 1000mm wide mesh for your valleys. I like to use 1000mm Mesh regardless of valley sizes, just because you can use the offcuts for some side hustle (lol) or can be used somewhere
on the roof you will be working on. So therefore tiled roofs are pretty straight forward in terms of ordering, now lets move onto metal roofs. Corrugated metal roofs always require a 250mm mesh and trims of course, aswell as specialy moulded saddles or "orbs" perfectly moulded to
fit over each corrugation. Trimdek and Kliplok roofs require the same sized mesh and trims, Trimdek can have moulded saddles aswell but the moulds almost never fit correctly. You cannot and must not purchase saddles for a kliplok roof. I always opt not to purchase saddles for
Trimdek roofs as they hardly ever fit. Corrugated roof valleys are very expensive in terms of materials because to be an effective leaf stopper, they require a saddle on every single corrugation along both sides of the valley! (TRUST ME THATS ALOT OF SADDLES!) Compared to a corrugated
roof gutter kit which only requires a saddles for every second corrugation. True Slate tiled roofs are only recommended to be installed by an experienced leaf screener, it's a big pain in the you know what to install (or do anything really!) on a slate roof! The main reason that it's a pain is that slate
is very delicate, making the tuck extremely time consuming. Secondly if you break a tile, you need to goto Harvard and get a rocket science degree to learn how to replace a
Installing Gutter Guard Safely
Ofcourse this paragraph had to come! If you did'nt know already, you now know that working from a ladder with sharp metals,drills and silicone is extremely dangerous.
Here are a few things to consider before contemplating an installation of Gutter Guard. Watch the weather forecast to ensure it won't be wet or windy, both these elements can ruin your day or life.
Safe access points are always never bad. Find your best spot to be able to get onto the roof, preferably stepping onto a flat roof or an area with a gentle slope. Seure your ladder
all the time and at every job. You never know when a gust of wind will come and blow your ladder onto the ground. Wear gloves otherwise your hands will end up like mine, scared to smithereens by little
aluminium mesh cuts. It is compulsary for people working above the ground to be restrained when they are in a fall zone, there are no grey areas here. If you are working from a ladder
do some research on how to operate and work with the ladder safely, there are plenty of youtube videos and online articles on this subject. Work with a friend or family member, just incase one of you
gets into any strife.
Things To Know Before Starting To Install Your Gutter Guard
This is an important paragraph because it will explain some terms that will be used in the following paragraphs about Gutter Guard Installation techniques. Your mesh will arrive in a 500mm width roll usually in lengths between 10m and 30m depending on the size of your order. It will have two edges, one has been machine cut at the factory (usually not the best of cuts) and the other
will be a perfect manufacturers cut. The perfect manufacturers cut side is easily identified by the fact that you cannot see any metalic colour from the manufacturers cut, because it will still have the paint from when it
was coloured. The bad cut side you will notice has a metalic shine on it from the factory saw, cutting the roll to size to suit orders. Now there are two sides to every roll of mesh (obviously!). The one side I will refer to as
the "Bulgy" side and the other side I will refer to as the "Inverted" side (NB These are just my made up terms, not sure if there exist any official terms for the sides). To further describe the two sides to make it perfectly clear what I'm
talking about: The bulgy side is the side that when you unroll the mesh across the gutter line, the mesh sits in an upwards position and the outer edges of the mesh are lower than the center. The Inverted side is the side that sits in a
downward position when rolled out across the gutter and the outer edges are higher than the center of the mesh. I will also talk about a piece of equipment called a "Roll Stopper", it's function is to prevent your roll of mesh from
falling off the roof. If you are doing this professionally then I advise you to purchase a special mesh unroller from your local mesh distributer. If you are just doing one job or are a homeowner DIY then you can alternatively use a
spare roof tile to stop the mesh from falling off the roof whilst you are laying it out. The preparation cut is a cut made in order to prepare the mesh for tucking or for screwing in your roof saddles or for preparatition for screwing the mesh to the roof sheet
on Kliplok or Trimdek roofs. Please note the tips that are to follow are given based on the perspective of someone working from on top of the roof who does not have a special mesh
Procedures for Installing Gutter Guard that are Universal Across all Roof Types
In this paragraph I will give you some gutter guard installation tips that are universal across all types of roofs. Firstly laying out the mesh uses the same technique regardless
of roof type. Working from left to right (or whichever direction suits your preference) make your way to the left corner of the roof with your drill and 1/4 bit for pre-drilling and
your roll stopper. Place your roll stopper 2m to the right of the left corner and predrill a hole 500mm to the right of the left corner. Next bring your roll of mesh to the left corner
and place it butted up against the roll stopper and unroll 2m [ * Inverted for Tiled Roofs * ^ Bulgy for Metal Roofs ^ (plus slight overlop) from right to left towards the left hand corner where you pre-drilled your hole. Screw the mesh into your pre-drilled
hole and make sure the outer edge of the mesh is as flush you can with a very very slight overlap to the outer lip of the gutter. Now place a second roll stopper just more than midway between the left and right corner of the gutter and predrill a hole about 1-2m to the left of your second roll stopper.
Bring the mesh from your first roll stopper to the second one and screw it into your second pre-drilled hole. Now take your first roll stopper and place it as close as you can to the right hand corner of your gutter and pre-drill
a hole 500m-1m from where you placed the roll stopper. Unroll your mesh to your final roll stopper and screw it into your last pre-drilled hole then cut the mesh with a slight overlap to
the outside edge of the gutter. It is recommended to take care at this stage as there is a risk that the mesh will fall off the roof once you cut the roll here, as this run of mesh is not separate from the roll at this point.
Secondly,laying the trims uses the same technique across all roof types. Working from left to right hold your trim against the lip of the gutter with your mesh flush against it. Make sure the edge of the trim that has the least surface area is on the outer
visible edge of the gutter and the other side that has the most surface area is facing up towards you. With your other hand and drill put your tek screw into the centre of the trim making sure that the outside edge of the mesh is flush with the outer edge of the gutter lip.
Once you you your centre screw in, you can then lay your next trim to the right of it making sure that there is about a 2-5mm overlap between them.
How can I help you?
Gutter Guard Installation on Tiled Roof Gutter Techniques
In this paragraph I will give you advice on how to tuck the mesh under the tiles. Gutter Corner and Valley techniques are quite complex and you would either have to use
your own techniques or sign up for my professional gutter guard installation training day for best results. You need to make preparation cuts into the mesh on the edge that is facing the roof tiles.
Most of the time you need to make two cuts, one cut be done from the outer edge of the mesh that is not screwed down towards the gutter. The other cut will be made sideways from one corner to the next.
The reason for the sideways cut is when there is too much of an overlap between the mesh and the *second row* of roof tiles. If there is too much mesh to tuck under the tiles, it means you will
need to lift the tiles higher than normal in order to tuck. This can result in broken or chipped roof tiles, so you will need to cut the mesh to a more optimal 10cm overlap. 10cm is more than enough mesh to
tuck under the 2nd row of tiles. Once you have done the horizontal cut, you will need many vertical snips in the mesh to make the tucking process easier and so that the 2nd row of tiles do not get pushed upwards by the aluminium mesh.
These vertical snips must never be cut more than the outer edge of the second row of tiles, otherwise your mesh will tear when pressure is applied to the second row of tiles. Tucking is always performed from the left
corner to the right corner because when going in that direction you can lift multiple tiles with one strike. You will know if you are going the wrong way.. trust me! Using the longest screwdriver
you can find and wearing a pair of gloves lift up the first tile to your right by jarring the screwdriver underneath that tile to start the lifting process. Leave the screwdriver jarred under the roof tile
and lift up the next two tiles to your right. Tuck the mesh under the first tile to your right completely and also as much as you can safely tuck of the second tile (usually 1/4 - 1/2 of tile 2). You must tuck at least a quarter
of the second tile to your right as it keep the mesh nice and smooth and make lifting that tile alot easier. Now that you have done your tucking from that position, slide the
screwdriver to the second tile and use it to prob up the tiles as you take a quick rest and move on to the next tuck section.
Corrugated Roof Gutters are sometimes very easy to install the saddles onto and sometimes not so easy! The basic technique is to screw in a saddle on every second corrugation of the roof
ensuring a slit is cut vertically in the mesh towards the gutter no longer than 3/4 of the length of your saddle. Always keeping in mind that you want there to be no spaces in the mesh where leaves can travel through.
It means that you would need to sometimes cut a saddle in half in order to make a complete seal of the mesh without using silicone. Where it gets tricky is the existing roof screws in the roof! A lot of the time they are
not in sequence or spaced to every second corrugation. The rule of law with saddle pinning is that you cannot pin a saddle ontop of a roof screw nor can you pin a saddle too close to a roof screw
otherwise the roof screw could tear your mesh. Also another rule of law is to ensure that there are no roof screws pushing up the mesh on the corrugation that has no saddle on it. You will often find yourself in
a situation where the roof screws are all over the place, in this case it is recommended to make a full horizontal cut (as straight as you can, use a marker pen!) from one corner to the other to ensure the mesh sits below the lowest screw.
In the rare case that the screws are all over the place and sitting really low in the gutter, then you need to just ensure that you make decisions with your technique that will ensure your customer or your roof is getting
a decent ski-slope effect. If you cut the mesh too short, the mesh will start to sit flat in the gutter.
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